Villa Cassidy

Finally a day at home and Roger has a chance to do some sketching while try to catch up with my blog!

Next morning its time to leave and on the journey, we do our usual thing and just dip off the main road for coffee... we know there will always be a delightful taverna waiting and today is no different.  We find Plaka.  A small tourist town with a small string of bars and tourist shops and GREAT coffee.  

We take our time and meander home along the coast.  We drop our hire car back to the village and they run us home to Roumeli Village... No Raki this time, just a stunning sunset.

Spinalonga or Leper Island.

We take the rural route up the mountains.  Its starting to look greener.  As we approach we see Spinalonga gradually emerging. 

And there it is. A magical island floating in a sea of sparkling blue.  Incredible to think that it was chosen as the place to send the lepers of Crete.

Of course, before we go exploring, we have to stop for lunch... Oh my goodness I hardly ever have lunch in Oz - definitely gym time when I get back!

We drag ourselves away to join the throngs of tourists visiting the island.  We abandon the Guided tours and Roger with trusty guidebook in hand leads on.  

It is an incredible place with history reaching back to the venetians.  We walk along the walls imagining all the people who have spent their lives here - especially the lepers who were banished here from all parts of Crete.

More info here http://www.explorecrete.com/crete-east/EN-Spinalonga-leper-island.html

We celebrate Roger's birthday one of the amazing restaurants by the ocean. Its speciality is roasted meats but of course I can't resist the fresh fish.

Walking back over the causeway we pass by two young women who have hired a quad bike.  We are amazed that they are driving at night, the roads in crete being what they are.  As we walk on we hear them  struggling to get the bike going.  After our experience of breaking down we go back to see if we can help.  Eventually they are able to kick start the bike and they are ready to set off to... Heraklion!  "Really?" we ask.  "Yes" they said "It took us 5 hours to get here" We are flabbergasted.  During the day we are constantly avoiding, motorbikes, scooters, trucks, buses, pedestrians, goats, sheep, dogs cats and of course the dreaded quad bikes!.  They are setting off in the dark at 10.00pm on a dodgy quad bike with faint lights over the mountains.   Good Luck we breath.  My first thought in the morning is.  "I wonder if they are still driving."

The Island of Kolokytha

"Turn your back to luxury hotels and the (gentle) hustle and bustle of the village of Elounda; follow the causeway and cross the old stone bridge that literally takes you over an ancient sunken city to the little island of Kolokytha, and you will arrive at a very special place to stay. “Elounda Island Villas” sits all alone on the island, where construction is no longer allowed. Set in a flower-filled garden, a few interconnected buildings look out over the Bay of Spinalonga with Elounda in the background; it is a magical spot. The split-level houses are done in simple traditional Cretan style (flagstone floors, built-in couches and beds, local wooden furniture) and provide everything you need, without extras or fuss."

How could we not go?

Our welcome was wonderful... cool drinks and a quick explanation of all the things we could do.  Our apartment was everything we could have wanted.  A 3 storey but small apartment, with windows at different  levels.  We could see feet going by from the lower bedroom but a few steps up to the top bedroom and we were looking down over the dusty olive trees and the ocean.

Eloundra was a busy town, with lots of tourists, and fabulous restaurants but as we walked across the causeway to the only hotel on Kolokytha  island, peace descended.  

Next morning we had a choice of places to walk and swim.  Right in front of our room was a small sandy beach but we decided to walk down one of the cart track to Kolokytha Bay.  Early in the morning there was just a handful of people there...A swim and a snorkel and back to the hotel for breakfast before we set off for Spinalonga Island.  

The Road to Kastelli

We had a great lunch, watching the villagers as they watch us!  We went for a walk around and met George, who had lived for lived 40 years in New Zealand and then he and his wife decided to return to Greece while their daughter stayed behind!  Because he spoke English we could ask him lots of questions.  The village has taken on a new life as people have started to renovate and build modern houses into the castle walls.  He works as a painter but also helps with the olive harvest

He showed us the machine that shakes the  olives from the trees.  I was intrigued to hear him say that the hard bit... kneeling on the stony ground and separating the leaves from the olives is left to the old women!

Check out how its done here.

As we are talking another man, Nick comes up for a chat - as of course they always do!  And then we all turn as we hear a car approaching.  "Oh no" groans George.  "This man is very rich but he can't drive."  A new white BMW,  was trying to get around the very tight corner.  "No, No" everyone shouts.  "Right hand down a bit.  Not that way, the other way.  Stop!"  Too late, the whole side of the car is scraped.  An obese man leaps out shaking his head.  Nick leaps forward, leaps into the car and smoothly drives the car around the corner and through the village.

Time to move on we think.

Kournas Lake

The Guidebook describes it as "A very beautiful lake surrounded by the White Mountains ... sounds like our kind of place, but first we drop into a little taverna for coffee...It's amazing how there is always one (or two or five!).
Petres Beach is 12 Km long of sandy beach (unusual) but we decide to take a turnoff to avoid all the sun bakers and find this little beach for ourselves.

Kournos is beautiful but not quite what we expected, lots of tourist buses, cheap pottery and paddleboat.  We do manage to walk around away from the crowds and discover these ducks, quite unperturbed by it all.

What we do discover is the most incredible restaurant. "Georges".. Everything from their farm and home cooked... the best restaurant in Crete... yeah!

Eleftherna

Eleftherna was one of Crete’s most important ancient cities.  We have found a walk which explores the ancient Dorian city, as well as the Byzantine Tower, Roman Cisterns, Necropolis and Hellenistic Bridge.  First stop though, is at the small taverna for coffee.  It is the usual warm welcome, where we are introduced to the whole family via the photos adorning the walls.  I decide to have "local" tea which is a mix of herbs found in the local hills.   Delicious!

Today about 100 people live here and it has a lively air. We study the map and realise there's much  discover...Its hot so we will just do what we can.

We set off across the Narrow ridge to the old Byzantine tower.  There are precipitous drops on either side - a perfect position for the villages to defend themselves from marauders.  

We look down at the valleys which are full of olive, orange, cypress and pine trees.  As we go we pick wild herbs, thyme, oregano, camomile to flavour our evening meal.
As we walk down we meet a greek guy emptying the bins... he immediately appoints himself as our guide and leads us to the Roman Cisterns.  

They are huge... how in 68BCE did they build such a complex system?  

The Romans obviously created a place of great luxury with villas, baths and public buildings... that is until the earthquake of 365CE.

Earthquakes are still prevalent here.. as Sue kindly told me, there was one on the day we arrived!

We fully expected our guide to disappear at this point, but no he was determined to take us up to the canal and the necropolis.. 

Finally, finally with the promise of a photograph and a small tip he leaves us... definitely a creepy experience.

We spend about an hour exploring the necropolis and then the heat gets to us.  We climb back up to the ridge top and home to Villa Cassidy for our afternoon swim!

It was an incredible place, would love to come back and explore more in winter when it is cooler.

You can check it out here or there are lots of sites on line.

Real Home - Manly is calling

As we are  in our final week here - 5 weeks really wasn't long enough.  Manly starts to nudge itself back into our lives.  When I look at our Calendar and wonder how I am going to pick up the pace of life again.  PowerUp Conference... Guests...Theatre... rehearsals and of course writing groups.

Great to see Di Harding has finished her second book and just love her promo video... Go Di Go.  Check it out here

Homeward bound... to Villa Cassidy that is!

Mostly this is how our journey goes....

But today our jaunty journey over the mountains is nearly over - only about an hour from home, when as we are going through a tunnel, Billy the Warrior, gives a little hiccup and then soars ahead.  Strange but we are on a stretch of road where a new laneway is being built so there is no chance to stop.....BUT stop we do.  

The engine just dies.  It's a holiday weekend and we break down on a single lane of traffic.  The hard shoulder has been cut off by a safety fence.

Trucks and buses, edge their way past us with a centimetre to spare.  Cars, motor bikes, scooters slow to pass and to shout obscenities at us. Traffic is backed up as far as we can see.

Roger directs traffic around while I try to break down the security fence.  A car suddenly swings in front of us and out jumps Jenna, a young Greek woman.  She's incredible... giving back as good as she gets to the abusive drivers and helping me to push Billy up the hill and through the safety wire.

Incredibly Roger gets through to Colin (our exchange's contact, who had told us to call him if we broke down).  Somehow, Colin organises a tow truck driver (on a holiday weekend!), while Jenna drives us 25 miles to a Pizza restaurant on the edge of town, where we can wait out of the heat of the midday sun.  Luckily the Greeks think nothing of people sitting for 4 hours over a salad and glass of water.

Colin and tow truck arrive at 4.00!  Yeah. Were we glad to see them?   Colin then drives us to "Bali Beach" to hire a car... but there is nothing available until 9.00pm. So we settle down to another 4 and a half hours of walking and crowd watching.

We're a bit dubious of our car hire fellow - especially when we see him syphon petrol from one car to put into ours!

In the end though he turned out to be a real hoot.  Billy's fuel pump had died and no one could fix it for a few days."No Worries.  I pick the car up from you, when you are ready."  We finally arrange to swap cars at Maria's Taverna in our village.

"Come sit... drink with us" he says.   The Raki flows, as did the food and laughter.  He's a great story teller and more and more people join us.  Luckily I drank water and so we got home safely!

Here's to Colin & Dawn for rescuing us and Francis and Rosa for funding a replacement hire car... What would we have done without you?

On the road again...

We are off again this time over the mountains to Agios Nikolaos and then to Makrigialos, to stay in a 300 year old complex.  No electricity just oil lamps. Not sure how we will go.

Agios Nikolaos is a dream place, a bit touristy but we are happy to drink it all in as we are heading to the mountains!  

Aspro Potamos is just as it was described.   It reminds us of staying in the cave hotel in Cappadocia.  So peaceful.  We pick up a take away and eat it on our verandah.  The mountains are just gorgeous.   As usual we love the early mornings and evenings.   

A touch of air conditioning would have gone down well, but so loved the ambiance.

Here like everywhere else in Crete, cats rule!

Rethymnon

Back into Reth to pay our fine!

We cheer ourselves up by wandering along through the Venetian Port, where we are tempted by the wonderful seafood.

We find we are surrounded by "Aussies"  A "Greek" couple from Melbourne and a couple from Adelaide.  We had to laugh when we heard the waiter spent 6 months in Melbourne and 6 months in Crete.  

Certainly took the edge off paying the fine!

Market time!

We have heard about the market in Rethymnon and so off we trot.   We arrive in town and luckily a kind Greek guy waves us into his parking spot.

Rethymnon  is our closest large town.  Lots to see and do.. Venetian Port, beaches, museums and great restaurants.

The market has everything from snails to 2 Euro "designer" clothes.  Too hot for us to scrummage and so we just enjoy sampling the cheeses, yoghurts and fruits.

Laden with fresh fruit and veggies,  we return to our car to find we have a parking ticket. Ha?  How does that work?  We visit the local police station - actually right opposite and explain our problem... no signs, other people parked there etc, etc.  Total disinterest, but they do give us a form to fill in "To send to the big man!"  "Ring on Monday" they say and so we do.  No one has received the form.   "Ring tomorrow morning." they say.   Which we do.  "What form?" they say.  "Ring tomorrow afternoon" they say.  Which we do.  "Pay the fine they say.  Half price for the first ten days and then full price.  If you don't pay the fine just  increases."  We pay the fine.  Our exchangees email us... Heard you had a parking fine they say.  Ha?  "How did you know?" we ask.  "We know people in high places they say."  I wish we'd known, maybe we wouldn't' have had to pay the fine!

Home to the lovely Villa Cassidy

It's a dog's life

We wake to the cool of the mornings... often woken by the cocks crowing in the village.  This is quickly followed by the yap, yap of  first one dog and then another.  

This morning I make a cuppa and then realise that the yapping is close and has become intense. I look over the verandah to see about 6 dogs burst from the olive trees.  They roar up the step towards our courtyard.  I quickly close all the doors as they snarl and growl.  

They circle and bark for about 20 minutes and then disappear over to the Belgiums, who also take refuge indoors.

It's a relief to see them disappear into the olives once more!

BBQ Magic

Go a little potty

After all our exploits of the previous day we decide to take it easy and visit the local village of Margarites, which is famous for its potters.

Wow!  We chose the afternoon so that there weren't any tourist buses, but production was in fine form, pots drying, pots being painted and of course lots of pots sold... and yes we did succumb.  

One of the best bits was this lovely restaurant overlooking the valley.  Not clear enough today but we are told you can see the villa from this spot.

Arkadi Monastery

In our usual unplanned way, we stumble upon the Arkadi Monastery... beautiful.

This is regarded as the most historic monastery in Crete.  Its has become the symbol of Cretan freedom.   The monastery  was founded in 12th Century, and  As you can read here... It's history is one of war and resistance.  

During the Cretan revolt of 1866. 943 Greeks, mostly women and children, sought refuge in the monastery. After three days of battle and under orders from the abbott of the monastery, the Cretans blew up barrels of gunpowder, choosing to sacrifice themselves rather than surrender.  The few that survived were beheaded the next day.

Strange how so often religion and war go hand in hand.  

We chose a time when there weren't many tourists and so we could enjoy if not the stories, the setting of this place.

And so... back down the mountains to our wonderful Terrasse.

Gun shots in Aga Galini

Ha! Ha! Sometimes as we look at the road signs we feel we are back in Central Australia!We can't resist ourselves.  We notice we are at one of the narrowest parts of the island and so find ourselves exploring the beaches at the South of the Islands.  

We had a wonderful lunch overlooking the water... I have become fascinated by the "Small Fish" entree.  Often like whitebait... but lots of different fish... Yum!

I know real estate is location, location, location... but someone should have a word with this pigeon!

Of course we love visiting all these small villages, but often it is the journey itself that is so amazing.  Driving through towns is like playing a video game, avoiding, scooters, cars, trucks, buses, pedestrians, cats, all behaving erratically.  On the highways its all of these plus narrow roads, hairpin bends, cliff edge roads and goats!