Les Jeudis de Béziers Allées Paul Riquet

I must say the french do know how to enjoy life!  Our 'friends' from the street kept saying don't worry it will be okay - its Jeudi.  Ok its Thursday - what's so good about that!  Well, 200 yards away is the magnificent plaza - Allees Paul Riquet.  We discover they have something happening there everyday and evening. On Thursday nights it's the Food and Wine Festival.  How good is that! While we are there we also enjoyed a fabulous Vide Grenier and Art Show.  Oh and yes the food and wine were terrific!

Our final night was the concert at the Theatre des Varietes... its worth looking up on line. Truly magnificent venue... the music... a rather limp Vivaldi... how is that even possible!

 

Dramas at the Théatre des Variétés

Hello again.... No we haven't had any dramatic moments that have stopped me blogging - just no internet or phone for a while.  Think I might have it sorted now (internet pub and cafe!)  We have had a few dramas though - well that's travel isn't it.  

We left Trausse Minervoir for a beautiful hour long trip through the French countryside to Béziers.  The magnificent Cathédrale Saint-Nazaire beckoning us through the traffic jams, one way systems and preparations for the massive Béziers Feria which happens every August.  I can't believe they still have bullfighting and how popular it is.  But that's another story.  

We eventually found where our apartment should be - overlooking the magnificent Theatre where we will go to a performance tomorrow. But where was it.  No one on the street had ever heard of the Loge du Theatre. It wasn't a very long street.  Everyone started to help.  Xavier from the local hotel managed to call the owner. Oh its the nameless blue door.  Simple just add the code and get the keys.  Code?  Oh yes 'desole' he said and sent it again.  An hour later success we had the apartment and the keys.  Up the stairs... its France of course there are stairs! Keys in lock... nothing happened. Frantic phone calls.  Someone on the way.  An hour later Mikael (owner)  tells Xavier to shoulder charge the door and we are in. Everyone is happy!  Well after two hours in the sun and a dubious lock on the door I'm not sure happy is the right word for me. 

The next two days are spent with lots of 'bonjour Monsieur, Madame and lots of Ca Va's and offers of help.  The apartment is beautiful and yes it does overlook the wonderful Theatre. We book a quiet day cruising along the canal du midi for the next day.  Think we need some chill out time.

Faire La Fête

 

For such a small village what a turn out!.... Such a great evening.... Music, dancing, food and lots of great company. Missed Erin and Milton but great to catch up with everyone else!

Of course the following day was La Fête nationale française or Bastille Day.  

The Flags of the Minervoir which usually fly on the Tour and pretty much everywhere else are taken down and the French flag raised.  It's a much more sober affair although they did serve wine and raclette at 1.00am!!!  It was actually very moving to here the Maire speak and we all sang La Marseillaise led by four primary students and of course led by the local brass band.  It was strangely moving.  Especially as Jessica Servet is so vibrant.  The pompiers (fire brigade) stood bravely in the 38 degree sun in their heavy uniforms while Jessica acknowledged each one of them for their efforts to quell the horrendous fires we have had. 

We were supposed to walk to the cemitiere to honour those who died in the war (like anzac day) but it (like many other events) was cancelled because of the intense heat.

So with a shower of 'Bonne fête nationale !' and 'Joyeux 14 Juillet !' we made our escape to air con.  For us it was sad as we were not sure when or where we would see everyone again...Oz, UK, France?  Who knows.  Our trips are always such a flurry of hellos and goodbyes!

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Les petits villages de France sont pleins de fantaisie.

 There's no doubt the little villages of france are quirky.  Here are a few examples.

Villages love displaying residents' views and artworks on their walls.  These are from one of our favourite villages Siran...about ten minutes from where we are staying.  I particularly like the one of the nun that is posted on the convent wall... unfortunately brings back memories for me!

Dogs that wee on the gardens are not popular here unlike Australians who are usually welcomed. with a certain awe! How do you cope with snakes, sharks, spiders, crocodiles and of course rampaging kangaroos.  A Paul Hogan smile is I guess the only answer.

30 Degrees and a Stroll Through Time

It’s hard to imagine that we were last here in 2013! It is such a shock to be back in tourist France after the last two weeks in a rural village. It is so beautiful and only 30 degrees! We were able to walk along the canal under the shade of the trees... tempted to do another canal trip.

Our last canal trip was in Wales. We took Mum, who was in her nineties and very spritely. Caleb dropped in on his European gap year and helped us with heavy locks. The locks here are automated, but the boats are big and the locks are deep—very deep. Caleb, what are you doing next year?

Crazy to think the Canal du Midi was dug out by hand back in the 1600s! An amazing project although it pushed its creator to bankruptcy and took 14 years, it was built by the incredible hands of 12,000 men and women.

What makes the Canal du Midi uniquely progressive for its time is that a substantial number of these workers were women. Riquet specifically hired women from the Pyrenees who possessed ancient Roman engineering knowledge of hydraulics and water management.

Even better, Riquet was a remarkably progressive employer. He paid his workers, both men and women (unheard of) flat monthly wages that were still paid out even if they were sick or if the weather was too poor to dig.

Lots of very burnt people loudly enjoying their hire boats on the canal.

Once we’d had our fill of the canal, cafes, and markets, we escaped the crowds for a quiet stroll through the old town. There, we met the artist Kathleen Burlumi. Originally from England, she settled in Trèbes with her husband and young son back in 1989. She took us around to show us the fascinating historical photographs displayed on the ancient stone walls.

I just love how beautifully the French preserve their history, though Kathleen shared that it isn't always easy. She told us about the struggles the local association faced trying to protect some of the old, abandoned houses that were destined to be bulldozed for a car park. In the end, it was only by appealing to the patrimoine (heritage authorities) that they were successfully saved.

It is wonderful to study the old photos—to see how people dressed and the proud, formal poses they struck for the camera. (Check out the wedding photo!)

With fresh baguettes and pains aux raisins in hand, we headed home, winding along the sunflower-lined roads back to Trausse.

Boulangeries, Britten, and Book Art

Every village is different. Sure, there will be old houses, a church, an épicerie if you are lucky, and definitely a boulangerie for a baguette or pain au chocolat. BUT there is always something quirky.

In Rieux, it was a couple of things. The church, for one. 

It is a Roman church dating back to the 12th century, beautifully set in the round beneath a grand cupola. The caretaker let us in with a huge, old key and simply said, 'Switch the light off when you leave!'

I did a quick try out of the acoustics.  They were amazing - though not quite as spectacular as when I sang at Notre Dame de Cros! Oh and yes I could have done with a tuning fork! Have a listen below.

Copy of Rieux July by Julie Howard 

It is ironic that my music arrived today. I really must start learning it. I have never sung Benjamin Britten before!

 

The second surprising thing we stumbled across was a collection of book art... such fun!

Mussels, Nuns and Medieval Walls: A Visit to Azille

A favourite spot of ours is Azille. It's only ten kilometres away. We love the Monastère Mater Dei. It was founded in 1361 by the Clarisses (Poor Clares) who were totally isolated from the community. In 2008 though, a different order, the Chanoinesses Régulières de la Mère de Dieu moved in. They are known locally for their liturgical music and for producing artisanal honey, syrups, and regional rosé wine. They even run an online business for their products.

When we arrived, Mass was in progress and the nuns were seated behind the altar, mostly out of our view. I was hoping to hear them sing... but not this time! I couldn't take a photo, but found this on the net.

People have lived in the town for thousands of years, evolving from a prehistoric settlement into a highly fortified medieval stronghold. I love how people have integrated the walls of the ramparts and the fort into their houses... a back wall here... a side wall there!

The town has tiny streets that wind through the fortifications, with the centre protected by the original walls and an outer wall added later. It has a café with a tiny épicerie and a terrific boulangerie. We've been lucky that each time we visit, there has been a camion ambulant.

The first time, there was the refrigerated camion du boucher/charcutier. Incredible! 

Milton had told us what fantastic butchers Icher & Fils were and that we should buy all our meat from them. Ha! We saw the signs and we wove through the tiny streets of Caunes-Minervois, but we just couldn't find the shop. One day we finally got there, but of course, in the true French tradition, it was closed. But now, here it was right in front of us - the side of the van opened up to display their fabulous meat and deli items!

On other days, there was a camion du crémier / fromager packed with delicious cheeses. A local speciality is la bougnette—a softball-sized ball made of minced pork belly mixed heavily with eggs and rassis (stale) breadcrumbs. The whole thing is wrapped in caul fat and then fried or baked until it has a caramel-coloured outer crust. It is incredibly hearty and a beloved staple of local village charcuteries. It tastes so much better than it sounds!

Pâtés en croûte are another local delicacy. One slice with salad for lunch keeps us both satisfied!

The last time we were in Azille, there was a man enthusiastically selling shellfish - mussels, oysters, lobster and prawns. When I asked if he had fish... he looked horrified. He declared, "Je suis écailler, pas poissonnier!" Mmmm, so a seller of shellfish is rated more highly than someone selling fish. Got it!

Then I asked locals which trucks came on which days, a Gallic shrug was the response! Ah well, it makes for interesting lunches and dinners.