Castles, Cheese, and 'Super-Sheep'

We had planned explore the countryside surrounding Trausse where there are lots of famous walking tracks and historical buildings but because of the raging wild fires (which are still burning) access to the forests was banned.

Here in England with the cooler weather we grab the opportunity to walk.  Of course most of the castles and churches here are in ruins due to age, the vikings, the hundred years war or the rampaging Henry VIII. 

About 3 miles southeast of Middleham is the amazing Jervaulx Abbey. It was one of the great Cistercian abbeys in Yorkshire. It was dedicated to St Mary in 1156. It's the only privately owned abbeys in England... but more of that story in a later post.

At the height of its prosperity the abbey owned half of the valley and was renowned for breeding horses, still a Middleham tradition. It was also the original home of the famous Wensleydale cheese which was originally made with ewes' milk. 

We haven't had time to visit Wallace and Gromit (Cheese! Gromit!) yet but we did get to explore the abbey. We go early to all of these places before the crowds come - although to be fair Europe is VERY quiet.  In France it was the heat, fires and threat of war.  I'm not quite sure here.  Maybe the school holidays aren't in full swing yet.

It was incredible to sit in the midst of this huge abbey listening to the baaing of Swaledale sheep.  The first thing you’ll notice about these sheep (usually while they are standing in the middle of a road refusing to move) is the face. It's jet black, but famously broken up by white 'spectacles'  around the eyes and a white muzzle. Their heads look exeptionally large as they have just been shorn. 

They are remarkably nimble. You’ll often find them balanced on limestone pavements or tucked into 'bields' (natural stone shelters) under crags during a blizzard. While other sheep are busy dying in the first frost, the Swaledale is busy digging through six inches of snow to find a fresh patch of heather.

Farmers take the hardy Swaledale ewe from the hill and cross her with a Bluefaced Leicester ram. The result is the Mule - a hybrid "super-sheep" that combines the mother’s toughness and 'will to live' with the father’s ability to produce multiple lambs and better quality wool.

Enough of sheep and back to the abbey...

I'm always amazed by how many stories there are and how they survive. There's a long complicated tale about how in 1279 Abbot Philip of Jervaulx was murdered by one of his monks. His successor, Abbot Thomas, was initially accused of the crime, but a jury determined that he was not to blame, and another monk fled. 

After the abbey we have a serious task to undertake... visitors are coming and its our task to check out the local eating places.  First stop the Richard III - an historic 16th century coaching inn in the centre of Middleham.  A great place to watch the horses go by - oh and to catch a few minutes of internet connection.