Mussels, Nuns and Medieval Walls: A Visit to Azille

A favourite spot of ours is Azille. It's only ten kilometres away. We love the Monastère Mater Dei. It was founded in 1361 by the Clarisses (Poor Clares) who were totally isolated from the community. In 2008 though, a different order, the Chanoinesses Régulières de la Mère de Dieu moved in. They are known locally for their liturgical music and for producing artisanal honey, syrups, and regional rosé wine. They even run an online business for their products.

When we arrived, Mass was in progress and the nuns were seated behind the altar, mostly out of our view. I was hoping to hear them sing... but not this time! I couldn't take a photo, but found this on the net.

People have lived in the town for thousands of years, evolving from a prehistoric settlement into a highly fortified medieval stronghold. I love how people have integrated the walls of the ramparts and the fort into their houses... a back wall here... a side wall there!

The town has tiny streets that wind through the fortifications, with the centre protected by the original walls and an outer wall added later. It has a café with a tiny épicerie and a terrific boulangerie. We've been lucky that each time we visit, there has been a camion ambulant.

The first time, there was the refrigerated camion du boucher/charcutier. Incredible! 

Milton had told us what fantastic butchers Icher & Fils were and that we should buy all our meat from them. Ha! We saw the signs and we wove through the tiny streets of Caunes-Minervois, but we just couldn't find the shop. One day we finally got there, but of course, in the true French tradition, it was closed. But now, here it was right in front of us - the side of the van opened up to display their fabulous meat and deli items!

On other days, there was a camion du crémier / fromager packed with delicious cheeses. A local speciality is la bougnette—a softball-sized ball made of minced pork belly mixed heavily with eggs and rassis (stale) breadcrumbs. The whole thing is wrapped in caul fat and then fried or baked until it has a caramel-coloured outer crust. It is incredibly hearty and a beloved staple of local village charcuteries. It tastes so much better than it sounds!

Pâtés en croûte are another local delicacy. One slice with salad for lunch keeps us both satisfied!

The last time we were in Azille, there was a man enthusiastically selling shellfish - mussels, oysters, lobster and prawns. When I asked if he had fish... he looked horrified. He declared, "Je suis écailler, pas poissonnier!" Mmmm, so a seller of shellfish is rated more highly than someone selling fish. Got it!

Then I asked locals which trucks came on which days, a Gallic shrug was the response! Ah well, it makes for interesting lunches and dinners.