I know, it does absolutely nothing for me so I'm not taking the veil!
First day we hired a guide.. Errol. He was absolutely fantastic. We told him that we could do the touristy things like the Blue Mosque and the Aya Sofya by ourselves but that we wanted his help to be able to travel independently around and to see some of the less crowded places, because Istanbul is a city of disgorged tourists.
He was great... fixed us up with transport cards and then took us walking....
First of all food and Hamam.... which we later tried out and it was truly incredible ... I am going to book one in just before we leave for Oz.
I look pretty trim don't I?
Hubbly Bubbly...
A FEZ OF THE HEART
One of the advantages of hiring a guide for the day is that they take you to 'out of the way' unusual sites that are not on the normal tourist route. This cemetery was one such place ... on land owned by one of the last sultan's daughters many of the last royal household were buried there. Ataturk banned the sultanate in 1925 but were allowed to return from exile to be buried. The male issue of the sultan had turban headstones, women tulips and important administrators A FEZ! Many things in Turkey are in reverse to the west such as ... tombstones face away from the grave, salt is in the pepper shaker and tea in a glass!
And so to the Spice Markets and the Grand Bazaar which has everything.... beautiful communal water tanks, a tiny but beautiful Rusten Pasa mosque complete with a mihrab, which of finely carved and sculptured marble, and of course the beautiful blue ceramic tiles. Amazing to see the minber, (pulpit), where the Imam stands when he is delivering his sermon at the time of noon prayer on Fridays or on holy days. This mosque like most others has been designed so that even when the bazaar is at its most crowded, everyone can see and hear the Imam.
What I loved most about the bazaar was the incredible ceilings. Most people of course had their eyes firmly fixed on the bargains. I couldn't believe these meerschaum pipes. And of course (pictured above) the "circumcision" suits.
In Ephesus we actually heard first of all and then saw a circumcision celebration. The loud noise of the drums, singing and musical instruments let us know something was happening. Happy women chanting and dancing lead the parade (I guess they could afford to be happy, nothing was happening to them.) Next in the horse drawn carriage was a young teenaged boy, dressed in luxurious white and gold clothes, a fur edged cloak draped around his shoulders. He was smiling and waving to the spectators, who all had that look on their faces..."You don't know what is coming to you.... glad its not happening to me."
The Turks are a truly industrious lot... no siesta for them, although we snook one now and then. Errol pointed out the money market to us... looked pretty calm but as soon as there was a change on the exchange market, all hell broke loose as they rushed around actually exchanging notes. Of course there was the inevitable visit to the Carpet Factory which was actually really interesting. The owner had been to Boarding school at Buxton - How amazing! Managed to avoid the big carpet purchased but succumbed later in Urgup, where we bought a beautiful Seljuk carpet, which we hope will be waiting for us when we get home.
Much as I love mussels, I couldn't understand how this mussel selling business could be successful. The cooked mussels sit there in 30 degree heat, while the sellers watch a movie on their iPhones. Occasionally someone comes up and buys a bagful. "Gastro magic about to happen" I think.
Wolf Hall has nothing on this!
The Suleymaniye Mosque was designed by the great Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan. It was built between 1550 and 1557, has four minarets, a central dome ... beautiful gardens and the tombs of the sultan and his favourite wife Roxelana. Rustem Pasa and Roxelana plotted against the sultan's favourite son, Mustafa who was strangled in 1553 on his father's orders!
One of many stories we were to hear of sons being murdered by their fathers, the saddest being when we visited Aya Sophia... but more of that later.
Eat your heart out Martine.... this lovely little mosque was just full of fantastic mosaics.... love the blue!
A final blast at the Spice Bazaar where we bought lots of delicious things to eat on our balcony...
Errol tried to persuade us to look at the NEW mosque (400 years old).... but all we did was glance because it had been a full, full day... so it was back on the tram to the delightful Empress Zoe.... Not a bad first day in Istanbul!
And so with the final call to prayer, we watched the sun go down while munching on "Turkish Delights" and so to sleep ready for our next big day in Istanbul....
We edged away from the main street and found a lovely back street restaurant ... fabulous food and great people watching. We then stumbled on a little barber shop. Roger couldn't resist. An hour later he emerged after having the haircut of his life, complete with clay mask, eyebrow trim and EAR WAX.. yep that's right. They pour warm wax into your ear and then once it is set they do a nifty rip and out comes the wax and hairs... "not an experience to be repeated" says Roger... but he looks pretty good, don't you think?
