Heroes, myths and the madness of war!

The five and half hour minibus (Dolmus) journey from Istanbul to the Dardanelles was full of spectacular vistas of intensive agriculture and major housing development. This waterway has been of strategic importance throughout history and witnessed many battles for the control of the "Hellespont" by Greeks, Romans, Byzantine, Seljuk, Ottoman, British, French and Turk.  The first impression you get of Gallipoli is how remote, how hostile the historic site is.  The smallness of ANZAC Cove, the heart wrenching battle sites/cemeteries; 'Lone Pine' and 'The Nek'.  The head stones with the words, "Believed to be buried in this location."  Each battle site was in fact mass grave of young, heroic Australians and New Zealanders who died for NOTHING!  Each plaque had final words for their loved ones ... such as, "My only darling son!" (F A Rawlings age 27)  "... could I just clasp your hand once more just to say well done" (Henry Collett age 21)
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