Tchin-tchin!

Finally caught up with Patrick and Louise before they left the chateau to returnto Kent.  So fantastic to cool off in the pool, eat delicious apéritif and of course sample the local wine, catch up with the English news and talk all things French!

Bon Voyage.... maybe see you again in Oz sometime soon!

What a lovely surprise - a delivery of local wines from you both. Tchin-tchin!

Quirky France

Like all countries France has so many unstated rules. When we moved to Australia, I wish someone had told us (among many other things) that when they said bring a plate, we should have put something on it!

So here are a few quirky rules for rural France.

Politeness is SO important.

You MUST say bonjour to everyone. The guy who is fixing the road,  the person serving you in the shop, the passerby on the street. BUT it’s not that simple. Just saying a bare "Bonjour" or "Au revoir" can feel blunt or clipped to a local. For politeness you have to attach a title. You must say "Bonjour, Madame" or "Bonjour, Monsieur." 

If you walk into a bakery, a post office, or the local café and there are a handful of locals standing around, you don't have to greet them individually. You address the room with a cheerful, rolling "Bonjour, messieurs-dames!" (Hello, ladies and gentlemen). It instantly shows respect. 

The "Re-Bonjour" 

This is a quirky trap that trips me up every time. In France, Bonjour literally means "Good Day," and it can only be said once per person, per day.

If you see the village pharmacist at 9:00 AM and say Bonjour, and then run into them again at 2:00 PM at the market, saying Bonjour a second time implies you forgot meeting them earlier, which is considered a mild social slight.

On the second encounter, you must smile and say "Re-bonjour!" (Hello again) or simply nod and pivot straight to "Ça va?".

In Australia once a transaction is finished, a quick "Thanks, bye!" as you walk out the door is standard. In a rural French shop, the exit is a three-part ceremonial dance. You never just leave, you must wish them well, based on the clock.

Before 6:00 PM: "Merci, au revoir, bonne journée!" (Thank you, goodbye, have a good day!)

After 6:00 PM: The vocabulary shifts instantly. Bonjour becomes Bonsoir, and your exit line becomes "Merci, au revoir, bonne soirée!" (Have a good evening!) 

Politeness Encore. Even the sat Nav is polite when giving you directions. It says s'il te plaît, prends à droite. Please turn to the right.  Really !!!

Opening Hours are a "Personal Suggestion” Ha! Don’t we know it!

Look working out when the shops are open is an absolute conundrum.  Milton told us that Icher and Fils were absolutely the best boucherie and we should buy our meat there… we eventually found it but every time it was closed. We eventually found them at Le Camion-Boucherie in Azille!

So this is how it works

The Sacred Midday Shut-Down: Between 12:00 PM and 3:00 PM, everything except for restaurants vanishes. The pharmacy, the bakery, and local businesses shut tight. If you forgot to buy your lunch ingredients by 11:55 AM, you are simply going hungry until mid-afternoon.

The whim of the merchant: It is totally normal to walk up to a local shop on a Tuesday afternoon to find a handwritten piece of cardboard taped to the glass reading: "Exceptionnellement fermé cet après-midi—parti aux vignes" (Closed this afternoon—gone to the vineyards) or "Fermé pour cause de canicule" (Closed due to the heatwave). The community completely respects this, after all life comes before commerce.

Traditionally, French restaurants have incredibly strict, rigid kitchen hours. The kitchen opens for lunch from 12:00 PM to 2:00 PM and then it completely shuts down. If you walk into a standard French restaurant at 2:15 PM looking for a meal, they will politely but firmly turn you away and tell you to come back at 7:30 PM or 8:00 PM when the kitchen reopens for dinner. Between 2:00 PM and 7:00 PM, a traditional restaurant is a food desert. 

When a restaurant or brasserie proudly displays a sign that says "Service Non-Stop" or "Service Continu," it means the kitchen never closes: They serve hot, full meals straight through the dead zone of the afternoon (from noon all the way until 10:00 PM or midnight). 

In rural areas like the Minervois, finding a place that does Service Non-Stop is quite rare, it’s mostly a feature of larger brasseries in towns like Narbonne or Carcassonne, or busy tourist hubs along the Canal du Midi. In the small villages, the traditional 12:00–2:00 rule still rules supreme.

Always Ask Permission to Speak English

Walking up to someone in rural France and starting a sentence in English, even with a polite "Excuse me, do you know where the abbey is?" is often perceived as aggressive, as it forces the local into your linguistic territory without warning.

You must start with: "Bonjour, Madame. Excusez-moi... parlez vous anglais ?"  Even if your French accent is completely terrible, the mere act of asking permission to switch languages is considered the height of good breeding. Once you ask, they will usually do absolutely everything they can to help you. 

Oh gosh I love it.  It's frustrating but I think they absolutely have their priorities right,

Vivre la France!

 

I'm in book heaven!

We love Carcassonne and Narbonne especially Carcassone with its impressive double ring of ramparts and 52 massive stone towers, but this year we have decided to embrace the local  villages of the Minervois. Today we visit Montolieu, the Village du Livre (Book Village).

Only  800 people, live here but it boasts around fifteen independent bookshops specializing in second-hand, antiquarian, and rare books.

Two of the most beloved and iconic shopfronts are La Rose des Vents and Librairie Abélard. All over town there are murals and statues celebrating books and authors everywhere, even a museum of printing...  

OMG that made me feel old.  I remember taking my Special Ed class to the Sydney Morning Herald in the seventies and visiting the composing room.  Men (and they were all men) worked at massive steel benches arranging columns of lead type into heavy iron page frames. 

I remember a fine aerosol of black ink in the air, coating everything - even us!  A really friendly Linotype operator typed out the students' names and they watched fascinated as the machine dropped a fresh, hot-metal line of their names into a cooling tray. 

They phased that out of course, but I kind of wish I had asked for one too.  I wonder if any of the students (now in their late fifties! still have theirs)

So back to Montolieu...Around every corner is something interesting.  Old houses, art galleries and in France in summer of course there is music.  

We especially liked L'Atelier Chris & Francis.  We met Chris and she explained how she creates a photograph using traditional silver halide (argentique) photography. Her husband, Francis then created  a vibrant, textured painting  directly over or inspired by her compositions.

They worked together to create incredible sculptures.

We had never heard of the La Manufacture Royale.  We stumbled upon it while we were exploring the town.  Holey moley is an impressive place. Accommodation, swimming pool, restaurant and JAZZ! Unfortunately we couldn't book in this time but it is certainly on the list for our next visit

The history is incredible... but more of that next time!

 

Ooo La La! Anniversaire in Trausse!

Then...

... and now!

Paella, champagne and we're having fun!

Olonzac once more!

We had spent the morning trying unsuccessfully to book the restaurant La Table de Terroir which looks lovely and had been highly recommended.  The problem was how to get there.  Its only 10 minutes away and we thought we would get a cab.  Think again.  Living in a non tourist village has many advantages but hiring a cab is not one of them!

In the end we decided to visit the wonderful Olonzac market again.  We explored the craft market this time.  Loved to see the guy in his campervan conversion, complete with sewing machine taking commissions to make amazing clothes. Hand made nougat ... ducks, bags, belts, clothing, pottery and bric-à-brac including those glorious hand door knockers.

We had a different plan though... we headed to the food market and bought yet more fresh fruit and vegetables and a paella. When we told the guy it was our wedding anniversary and that we had been married for 53 years, he gave us a roar of approval and piled on the prawns.

'Ooo la la! We will never eat that ... but of course with a 'bon appetit' we polished it off!

A Chasm of Relief: Water, Wine and Wonderment

Seeking relief from the relentless heat we decide to visit the Gouffre Géant de Cabrespine (The Giant Chasm). We had no idea how spectacular it was! It was aleady 38 degrees at 10.30 in the morning when we stepped into an astonishing subterranean world that stays a blissful 14°C all year round.

The scale of this place is so hard to comprehend and photos don't do it justice. 

 

As we walk out along the metal gangways, we are suspended right over the depths. The lighting is incredible, shifting to illuminate the soaring rock faces and the sheer, breathtaking drop beneath our feet.

Wandering deeper along the paths, the rock formations become incredibly intricate. We were surrounded by magnificent, massive columns of stalactites and stalagmites that look like flowing, golden wax frozen in time over millions of years.

One of the absolute highlights was getting a close-up look at the rare, brilliant white aragonite crystals. They branch out in every direction like delicate underground coral or bursts of frost.

It was the perfect afternoon escape, an amazing geological journey and comfortably the best natural refrigerator in the South of France! Hard to believe it was only discovered in 1968 and this section only opened in 2025. 

Of course it's the Minervois and wine is at the core - so winemakers nestle large clay amphorae into the upper reaches of the chasm. Here, the wine is exposed to a steady 14°C temperature and high natural humidity. The breathable clay combined with the cave's damp atmosphere allows for incredibly slow, magnificent flavor development without the wood-heavy taste of oak barrels.

But it doesn't stop there! For the ultimate stage of maturation, thousands of bottles are lowered deep into the abyss using a complex rope pulley system. They are placed directly into the rushing underground river, 200 metres beneath the earth's surface. We are offered a tour to dive down along the river to deposit and retrieve bottles... guess what? We declined!

With temperatures soaring into uncharted territory, Europe is bracing again for increasingly extreme weather and the consequences hit terrifyingly close to home. Just down the road from us, a violent wildfire broke out in Pouzols-Minervois, turning the rolling landscape into a raging wall of smoke and fire. 

Getting into the car, the digital display climbed to a staggering, sweltering 45°C - a heat so thick, it takes your breath away.

On the way back we stopped at Villeneuve Minervois, a lovely village famous for its black truffles and surrounded by rolling vineyards, but it's  stone streets are quiet as everyone is indoors  escaping the afternoon sun.

We parked next to 12th/13th-century round medieval defence tower, now private housing but still with its original arrow slits (meurtrières). We loved Gines Aznar's sculptures depicting the activities of the town. And yes of course we bought truffles...   œufs brouillés à la truffe noire for breakfast tomorrow.

Remparts, Baguettes, and €139,000 Temptations

Now I haven't really said much about Trausse Minervois where we are staying (our house is bottom right).  It's off the beaten track but close to everything.  It has an épicerie, a restaurant, a church, school and of course a medieval tower. The épicerie is the centre where everyone goes for fresh baguettes each morning, a coffee later in the day and maybe a glass or bottle of wine in the evening.  Its the place to go to catch up with everyone.

At this time of year every village has a Bar à Vin (school fundraiser) or a fete of some description at least once a week.  They are always great community events, with food, wine and music, We dropped into the Bar à Vin @ Trausse and caught up with Susan and Stuart.  They've lived here for over 25 years and I think they're on their 6th house renovation!

There is a large expat community here with people from Britain, Canada, USA, and of course a large contingent of Aussies. The houses here are so cheap and the place is so friendly.  As we stroll through the streets each morning everyone says "Bonjour" twice... once for Roger and once for me!

The house opposite to us came up for sale and so we had a look around ... very tempting. Have a look at what you get for €139,000!

We have been lulled into the peaceful life of this lovely village which is tucked into the foothills of the Montagne Noire.  We are usually the only ones walking early in the morning which allows us to explore uninterrupted by bonjour or Ça va.  We love the architecture everything from tiny medieval houses to the grand chateaux.

Walking through the narrow, winding streets of Trausse is like stepping back through centuries. The village dates back to the 8th or 9th century and was once a fortified hamlet caught in the crosswinds of the historic Cathar region. Our house backs onto the remparts and we park our car next to the ancient tower.

I love the cheeky signs on the crossings next to the school warning people to drive slowly (Roulez doucement!) Oh and have a look at the car.... it's so hot so everyone leaves their car doors and boot open. 

 Of course the Minervois is a major wine growing area and the village is surrounded by a a landscape of rolling vineyards.  Again wine growing is a community activity from the quiet winter pruning to the high 
camaraderie of the late summer vendange (grape harvest).

Before the Heat and the Crowds: Minerve’s Dove of Light

Setting off in the cool 25 degree morning air, we made tracks for the cliffside stronghold of Minerve. It's stunning - a place where history and architecture cling to the limestone gorges. Over 30,000 years of human occupation!

While the village's 93 residents can drive across the spectacular 1903 viaduct, the rest of us park on the heights above and walk in. It’s a spectacular approach, fab for photos.

 

We walk down from the upper parking lot and cross into Minerve, past the stark, towering remnants of the Candela (the Candle) a remnant of the13th century medieval castle. As we stoll along the ramparts we  find out about the Cathars. It's hard to imagine living through the brutal seven-week siege in 1210. The replicas of the trebuchets which catapulted massive stones are just across the gorge.  Terrifying.

Imagine having to choose - to surrender and face a torturous death or to accept Catholicism and face hell for eternity!!! Surender they did! They burnt over 400 people  at the stake.... horrendous!

Today though it is tranquil and beautiful.  The streets are deserted and we can explore to our hearts content. The museum is open and we explore stone and bronze artifacts.  At 10.00 the cafe opens. A trickle of people start to arrive.  The temperature rises.

We settle down next to the 11th-century Église Saint-Étienne and spend half an hour in the shade sketching.  

I notice a flower planter, with inscriptions.  I later find out that it's an ancient, deeply weathered sarcophagus or baptismal vat carved with a naive Romanesque relief that details the biblical story of Genesis and the Original Sin.

Reading the relief from left to right,..

The Gates of Eden : The heavy, bricked wall with a defined arched doorway represents the locked entrance to the Garden of Eden or the heavenly city.

Life in Paradise: Moving inward, figures are shown under stylized trees, representing the initial innocence of Adam and Eve.

The Temptation: In the middle, you can see the Tree of the Knowledge of Good and Evil with the serpent distinctively coiled around its trunk, tempting Adam and Eve.

The Expulsion & Labor: To the right of the tree, the figures are shown facing the consequences of their actions clothed or covering themselves, with the final figure on the far right holding a tool, most likely representing Adam being condemned to labor and till the earth after being cast out.

Next ti the trough is the Cathar Monument, erected in 1982. It's also known as the Colombe de lumière (Dove of Light) because of the way the sun shines directly though the bird.

By now the temperature has risen to high 30's and its not going to stop there! The trickle of people has now become a constant stream.  Time for us to leave for the cool of Erin's place.

Back in Trausse there is great activity as the village prepares for Bar a Vin a fundraiser for the local school. We'll check it out tomorrow night!