These boots (sandals) are made for walking

Did I say three days and then I'll be fit?  I find that my only respite from the pain is walking (assisted by very strong painkillers).  So walking is what we do.  There is always something to see in the bustling streets but there are always oases of charm and peace.  Snuggled into a corner of the Medina is one such place - the Legation of the United States of America - a little pocket of history!

 

1777 Under Sultan Moulay Mohammed III, Morocco is the first country to recognize the fledgling republic of the United States during the American War of Independence. 

1786 The Moroccan-American Treaty of Peace and Friendship, still in force today, is signed, commencing America’s longest unbroken international relationship. 

1839 The U.S. consul reluctantly accepts a lavish gift of a live lion and lioness for President Martin van Buren from the imperial court of Sultan Abd al-Rahman.  MMM... wondered how they coped with that!

The legation is located in a beautiful 5 storey mansion that houses some fabulous artworks, photos and a cultural educational centre. Weird seeing all those American Presidents.  I especailly loved the painting of the sevant girl by James McBey

The legation has played a key educational role in providing literacy programs for women from the old city of Tangier as well as training diplomats in Moroccan language and culture.

I decided to take a break and leave Roger reading the plaques he loves so much. Just around the corner is a myriad of tiny streets where kids fly around the corners chasing balls, riding bikes and playing hide and seek. I found a small street stall selling vgetarian food and decided to chill watching women and family groups come and go shopping, chattering and enjoying the same delicious street food I was eating. 

It was the best of times it was the worst of times!

One of the things we love doing is exploring the back streets especially when the disgorged cruise ship passengers flooded through the Medina.  On one of these trips Roger ducked into a little barber shop!  What fun!  There has never been a haircut like it...it included trimming of nose & chest hair, ear cleaning and a facial. 

All with laughter and banter.  Younes was an expert.

I stood and watched. 'Sit' he said 'No I'm fine' I said, I'll stand.' 'Why?' he asked.  Eventually I said that I had hurt my back.  'Massage 'he said.  'Oh No!' I squeaked, the very thought bringing tears to my eyes.  There followed an intense discussion.  'You need cupping' he said, 'not massage. ' 

Mmm, I've had cupping before, maybe it would help with the pain.

A runner was dispatched immediately.

Now in Tanger, if you pause for a minute (as we had found out when we arrived in the Kasbah), there will be someone ready to help or direct you.  'Kasbah?' 'Medina?' they call out.  This time a scrawny man who set off at the speed of light, led us through the tiny crowded streets.  Impossible for me to do anything more than a slow walk.

Eventually I caught up with them at a tiny barbers shop.  A man emerged and looked at me shaking his head.  'No woman' he said.  'Come back in two days.' 

The runner held out his hand for his tip and then disappeared into the crowd.  We wove our way slowly back to our haven 'La Maison Blanche'. When we told Aziz of our experience he said. 'I know a great person (of course he did), she will do cupping for you. 

Next morning Aziz had organised a taxi for us.  Slowly, slowly I said, yelping out with pain every time we hit a cobblestone.  Over the next hour we drove around eventually landing up at a clinic in the middle of town somewhere.

Yes they could do it in fifteen minutes.  I spent the time walking trying to ease the pain.  I was ushered into the cubicle where the doctor said 'hop on the couch.' Hah!  As if?  

I finally managed to lie face down on the couch and he attached the cups.  Then came the point where I had to get down but I could not move.  The pain was excruciating.  What had I been thinking?

Four people lifted me off the table and somehow I stumbled back into the waiting room.  Roger's face turned white when he saw me!

We walked back to La Maison - walking was (and still is) the only way to ease the pain.

By midnight that night I could not move and my back was constantly spasming. Arghhh! Roger and Nushka somehow got me out of bed and down to Aziz's car and we were off to the hospital!

Three hours later Aziz, drove us back.  I was floating with all the drugs they had pumped into me!

Its only on the way. home that we found out it was Aziz's birthday and he had left the celebration to take me to hospital.

Seven O'clock next morning after 3hrs sleep, he and Nushka were serving us breakfast.  What amazingly kind generous people.

We cancelled Riad in Fes, postponed our train trip and booked another three nights at La Maison Blanche.  I was going to be fine to travel in 3 days time, wasn't I?

Nuska, Aziz and Roger - what would I have done without them?